A book about Polish climbers by a Canadian writer just won two awards

“Between 1980 and 1989, Polish climbers were giant, worldwide leaders as high-altitude climbers, especially in the Himalayas. This volume documents those charismatic leaders and their iconic climbs in a defining chapter of Himalayan climbing history.” —Reinhold Messner, world-renowned climber, explorer and author of 40 books on mountaineering, including The Naked Mountain, Free Spirit: A Climber’s Life and The Second Death of George Mallory

“For many years, we in the climbing community have stood in awe of the accomplishments of Polish climbers. Relatively late into the Himalayan game due to political and monetary restrictions enforced onto them within their own country, the Poles sought the mountains as their escape. It was in fact the hardships they endured within Poland that hardened them physically and emotionally to seek out and endure the toughest climbs in the world. Freedom Climbers is a very enlightening and captivating look at the Polish climbing superstars, what drives them, their amazing accomplishments and their continuing role in pushing the limits in the mountain arena.” –Ed Viesturs, author of No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World’s 14 Highest Peaks and K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain 

Only three decades ago, winter high altitude climbing was thought impossible. That myth was expunged when Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki stood atop Everest on February 17, 1980. Two years prior, Messner had shown that high altitude climbing was possible without oxygen, and now the Polish had proven that the mountains could be climbed in winter. The floodgates were opened for a dynasty no one could have predicted. Over the next eight years, Poland took six more of the world's highest peaks in winter. It wasn't until 2005, when Simone Moro stood atop Shishapangma, that a non-Pole reached the summit of an 8000-meter peak in winter, and he did it with a Polish partner, Piotr Morawski.

Two Polish climbers have completed the first ever winter ascent of Gasherbrum I, an 8,068-metre (26,469-foot) peak in the northern Pakistani Karakoram range, expedition head Adam Hajzer said Friday.
 
Adam Bielecki, 28, and Janusz Golab, 43, climbed the peak without oxygen, the Polish news agency PAP quoted Hajzer as saying.
 
The team of four Polish and two Pakistani climbers spent 49 days on the ascent in extreme weather conditions with temperatures dropping to minus 35 Celsius (minus 31 Fahrenheit) and wind blowing at up to 100 kilometres (63 miles) per hour.
 
Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, is the world's eleventh highest.

Krzysztof Wielicki, the second Pole after Jerzy Kukuczka, who won the Crown of the Himalayas, comments on the successful climb of the Poles up the summit of Gasherbrum I, exclusively for Dziennik Zachodni.

DZ: Our mountaineers conquered Gasherbrum I. Aren't you glad to have lived to see your worthy successors?

KW: This is actually the great news. This success restores the Poles back into "the game" of winter climbing in the Himalayas. In the recent years this extreme sport has become a domain of the duo Denis Urubko and Simone Moro. We have had quite a few years pause. Now we showed again that we deserve to be called "the ice warriors".

DZ: A layman will say: Gasherbrum I is one of the lowest eight-thousanders, so what is in here to celebrate?

KW: Winter climbs belong to completely separate category. In addition, Gasherbrum I lies in the Karakoram, and the weather there is worse than in the Himalayas proper. It is difficult there, even at the height of 7000 meters above sea-level, because of the hurricane winds. This is why the weather forecasts were so important in this case - they had to wait for a short window of tolerable weather, one - one and half days at least, to have a chance of successful climb to the summit. Their logistics and tactics have proved to be excellent.

very impressive and very lucky these polish climbers .

good job Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab.

rip Gerfried Göschl,
rip Cedric Hählen
rip Nisar Hussein,

good for the Poles

what about Tamara stys?? she lost a finger i think

We have agreed with Gerfried’s brother – Wolfgang Goeschl – to call the searching operation off. After a small ceremony in memorial of Gerfried Goeschl, Cedric Hahlen, and Nissar (Hussain) Sadpara, we – Artur Hajzer, Agnieszka Bielecka, frostbitten Alex Txicon and Darek Zaluski – have all started the packing-up to leave BC. Adam Bielecki, Janusz Gołąb and Tamara Styś have already left [by a helicopter].
It is difficult to accept that such great friends and climbers have passed… We share our pain with all friends and send our condolences to the families.

Artur Hajzer.