Warsaw is not for seekers of the obvious, but it does have some decent places. Actually Praga seems to be the place to be if you're into arty/cultural happenings, but you really have to know where to look/know the right people.
As far as Krakow goes, I lived there for the better part of a year in the mid-90s, and I can't think of a thing that could make me move back. I was dying to bust out by the end and haven't gone back for more than a few days since. I hear that it's changed for the better, though. Ventilation in the pubs, and all that. :-)
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Free at last, free at last, Lord almighty we're free at last!